A new structure for Spanish wine?

(Or ‘Let the consumers do the talking’)

Artadi’s decision to leave the Rioja appellation is just one example of a movement among Spanish winemakers and wine writers to promote recognition of single vineyard sites and village terroirs and the wines produced on them as a means of showing the huge diversity of soils and landscapes in Spain. The movement’s leaders are convinced that it’s necessary for Spain’s appellations to go one step further than merely certifying general origin within the appellation.

Here’s the manifesto (my translation):

 

     Exceptional Vineyards

 Spain is the richest European country for its biodiversity and landscapes but at the same time it is one of those in which the respect and preservation of its surroundings is most questioned. The world of wine is no exception.

 The appellation of origin system has been an efficient means of ordering the wine world as far as origin is concerned but its objective has not been to differentiate soils and landscapes nor has it led to a policy of quality. In Spain policies have been developed to convert our vineyards into the largest in the world but no action has been taken to convert them into the best in the world.

 Nonetheless, we have history, places and the necessary passion to put the best plots and the most exceptional places at the forefront.

 For this reason, we believe that sweeping changes must take place and a new path opened that allows giving value to our unquestionable wine patrimony. It must be a global change affecting each and every layer of the wine sector from grapegrowers to public administration.

 All great wines in the world are a reflection of exceptional vineyards. For that reason, the most prestigious wine regions have always made laws based on those extraordinary vineyards for the purpose of defending and protecting them.

 We are convinced that the best way to identify wines in relation to their origin, quality, identity and authenticity is to create a pyramid structure. At its base would be wines made from grapes from any place in appellations of origin, then, wines from villages and at the tip of the pyramid, wines from single plots.

 All producers would win. We believe that raising the bar and demanding more of ourselves we will improve, we will be capable of better explaining the reality of our country’s wines, and we would help to sell the rest of our wines more effectively.

 For the above reasons we ask the Regulatory Councils to understand the new reality of the wine sector that is blossoming in Spain and to help show the differentiation that exists within each and every appellation of origin in our country. We know that this differentiation is the beginning of exceptionality and because the single vineyard wine movement is unstoppable and is, moreover, the best way to accomplish the goal of Spain’s wines becoming better and more prized.

 About 200 winemakers, practically all of whom are already making single vineyard wines, journalists, sommeliers, distributors and wine shop owners signed it.

Giving official status to single vineyard and village wines is absolutely necessary to provide small and medium-sized wineries a competitive advantage and positioning in markets where there is an increasing number of suppliers and a decreasing number of distributors and small retailers to offer them to consumers. If a wine comes from a single vineyard, why shouldn’t the winery have the right to say so?

Diapositiva2

Having said that, I’m not convinced that the best way to tackle this problem is to lobby the Ministry of Agriculture to establish a pyramid structure, defining that single vineyard wines at the tip of the pyramid are intrinsically better and more authentic than wines coming from a single village or wines that are blended.

To me it makes more sense to lobby the appellations of origin to create a procedure to certify the specific origin of a single vineyard or village wine and let gatekeepers (distributors, retailers, supermarkets, wine writers) and ultimately, consumers decide which wine they prefer.

I can’t speak with authority about the rest of Spain, but in Rioja there are a number of highly successful wines that come from separate vineyards, villages and even the opposite ends of the region (from Rioja Baja as well as Rioja Alta) that would almost surely not accept the idea of being lower on a ‘quality/authenticity’ scale than a wine from a single vineyard or village. The attempt to create ‘vinos de pago’ or single vineyard wines in Rioja based on a quality pyramid set up in the latest Spanish wine law was rejected a few years ago in the Regulatory Council by wineries that refused to accept that a single vineyard wine was, a priori, higher on the quality scale than a blend. For the sake of clarity, let me say that most of the wineries on that committee were making single vineyard wines!

It makes no sense to me at all to create a Médoc or Burgundy-like hierarchy for Spanish wines. It’s common knowledge that the Médoc classification has only been changed once since 1855 (when Mouton-Rothschild moved from third growth status to first following years of intense lobbying by Baron Philippe de Rothschild). In any case, this classification was based on retail prices, not on any intrinsic characteristics of one terroir over another. The courts are still hearing cases from disgruntled chateau owners in Saint-Émilion when the classification was reshuffled several years ago. I could go on and on about Pomerol and the crus bourgeois in Bordeaux but the point is, the appelations should give the wineries and winemakers the flexibility to create the best wines for their markets and let the wineries extol the virtues of their products to the gatekeepers. Doing this on a yearly basis rather than creating a hierarchy is the best way to keep wineries on their toes and quality high. The greatest benefit is greatly raising the prestige of Spanish wines around the world, exactly the signers of the manifesto request.

The Regulatory Councils have the statutory obligation to certify the origin of the wines in their appellation. The wineries aren’t asking too much to take this certification to the next level.

 

 

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2 thoughts on “A new structure for Spanish wine?

  1. Thanks for putting up an English translation so the conversation can get out of the Spanish echo chamber.

    But in regards to a working system, you don’t need to look to France but what is done here in Priorat. The quality standard is overall excellent (there are always exceptions of course) and both the Catalan Vi de Finca system as well as the Vi de Vila have their place and honestly, Priorat leaves Rioja in the dust in terms of a region having a consistently high quality level overall. There’s some truly dumpy stuff in the lower price ranges of Rioja that tarnishes the excellent wines that exist in the higher-end.

    I think the reason that the Consejo has been resistant is that it will mark the end of Rioja as we know it. There will be a schism that will break in to two Riojas or maybe more. The excellent one of top-end, single estate, craft wines and then crap one of everything else which is currently the one stinking up the room anyways but is making so much money for the region, they can’t get rid of it nor do they want to admit that a lot of the region really and truly isn’t worthy of a DOCa. They just have so much invested in the Rioja brand (and it’s a damned impressive brand I must admit) that they don’t want to do anything to upset that golden goose.

    It will probably take a few more marquee estates to leave like what happened in Tuscany which then resulted in the Bolgheri appellation creation and that’s what’s really needed, is for quality appellations to overlap in Spain. It is essentially never done and Vino de la Tierra sharing space with a DO doesn’t count. It may be confusing to the customer who says, “Gimme a Rioja!” but in terms of quality, it would push Rioja skyward and there are definitely a number of cellars ready for this.

    Cheers

    -miquel
    https://wineonsix.com

    • Thanks for your insightful comment, Miquel.

      I don’t think Rioja will crash because of Artadi’s leaving Rioja or the publication of the Club Matador manifesto but there are a lot of folks out there, including me, who are sick and tired of seeing dirt cheap product on supermarket shelves in Germany, Holland, the UK, Spain and other markets.

      It’s a shame because there are a lot of hardworking wineries here (not only Artadi, Sierra Cantabria, Remelluri, Finca Allende, etc. etc.) but others who are marketing well-made wines whose efforts are being devalued by a few lowballers.

      How does one shame these lowballers into cleaning up their act? I can think of a few ways but sadly I’m no longer involved with anything the Consejo does (and before, I was the international PR guy, not the QC department).

      Hopefully, these happenings will stir the Consejo into action.

      Thanks again for your comment and for reading Inside Rioja.

      Kind regards, Tom

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